In the summer of 2022, we sailed around the Atlantic coasts of Europe. Having departed from Helsinki in the middle of June, we first made a long detour north and cruised the north of Norway. We then continued south towards Spain and Portugal via Scotland and the west coast of Ireland. In the beginning of October, we left the boat over winter in Lagos, Algarve.
On a non-stop sail from Helsinki to Bergen in the beginning of July 2021 we were just passing the Sound as Norway’s new Corona restrictions forced us to take a pause in Copenhagen. After quickly reconsidering our plan to sail to the north of Norway, we decided to cross Kattegat and sail through Limfjord to cruise the North Sea. We visited several Danish harbours, the German offshore island Helgoland and the Wadden Sea island Sylt. When two weeks had passed from our second jabs, we were finally allowed to sail to Norway. As it was already past mid-August, we couldn’t proceed further than Bergen. At the end of a very improvised sailing trip (partly twosome, partly with changing family crew and a friend), we were happy to cruise the beautiful Hardangerfjord area before heading back home to the Baltic Sea.
Having sailed in light to moderate headwinds two days since our departure from Helsinki, we got northeasterlies after Öland. Rain didn’t matter much when running with good speed with a poled out genoa. During the night the wind increased to 30-35 knots, and as we approached Bornholmsgattet, Ilmatar was surfing up to 15.5 knots. With the first morning light we took the second reef and dismantled the whisker pole. After rounding Sandhammaren we were sailing on a beam reach toward the Sound.
Sailing Archipelago Sea during autumn holidays mid-October 2020. As usual, the weather varied greatly: winds from 10 to 30 knots, some sunshine, some rain, and even the first puff of snow. The islands were already quiet, but we enjoyed the autumn colours at day and the hot sauna with a swim in the evenings. Afterwards, by the fire, we listened to the migrating birds against the sound of the wind in the trees.
(NB Instead of the traditional sailing flag, we were flying the national flag of Finland, as we had just lost the former one stormy night… Warm thanks to Kari Myyrinmaa for the new flagpole he immediately conjured up from the cabin of his yacht after he heard from our loss!)
Sailing Hanko to Helsinki late October 2020, in a weather that wouldn’t surprise anyone this time of the year 60˚ N. Rounding Hanko peninsula, we chose the narrow fairway closest to mainland that runs between all those rocky islets. Most beautiful on a bright summer day, somewhat scary in wind and rain. After an open sea passage, we reached the Porkkala archipelago. Heedless of the weather, white-tailed eagles were soaring above the bent pines and the half leafless birch trees. The short gloomy day turned dark some hours before we arrived at Helsinki.
Sailing the Gulf of Finland on the way from Utö to Helsinki in August 2020. The night sky was clear and the milky way shining brightly up above, as I raised the sails after some motoring in calm weather. The lighthouse of Jussarö was flashing in the north 10 nm away. For a moment, I had to turn higher to give way to a freighter heading to Hanko harbour. Once alone again, I enjoyd the mystery of dawn sipping hot coffee. The new day arrived with golden sunlight and it was time to wake up Anna-Maria and get some rest. There were 30 nm left to Helsinki.
Åland Islands, August 2020. Sailing in splendid weather from Stegskär near Mariehamn to Kökar, we chose an unmarked route south of Föglö. It runs between the out skerries, following first the submarine cable line E to Skottskär, and turns then NNE to reach the official 2,4 m fairway. A most beautiful corner of the Archipelago Sea.
The last bright night of the summer 2020 en route from Sea Lapland to the Quark Archipelago. It was already late July and five weeks had passed since the summer solstice, but the nights were still bright 65˚ N. The light lingered in the sky after the sunset and just a couple of hours later it was getting brighter, so it barely made sense to ask whether it’s dusk or dawn. After a slow departure from Tornio in light winds, we enjoyed a beautiful, peaceful night as Ilmatar was heading SSW with 6-7 kts. In the morning, the wind increased to fresh breeze and we were doing 8 kts on a close reach in mostly sunny weather. After 27 hours we reached Valassaaret, having logged 186 nm.
A sailing trip from Kylmäpihlaja to Tornio in July 2020. The mouth of the River Tornio is the northernmost point on the Finnish coast to reach with a sailing boat. On the way north, we had the opportunity to visit the beautiful Quark archipelago, an exceptional area of low, rocky islands with rich flora and fauna. Finally, we were able to experience the remote coastal waters of Sea Lapland, with very few other boats in sight.
Ilmatar on a close reach in 26 knots wind. Ohto, climbing out of the hatch, celebrates here his 12th birthday. Archipelago Sea, June 2020
Sailing Baltic Sea and Kattegat in the summer 2019
A sailing trip from Helsinki to the Archipelago Sea during autumn holidays in late October 2019. Short, dark days in a magically quiet archipelago. Lots of rain and drizzle, temperatures between +2 and +12 C, but also beautiful sunny days. Here you can see Ohto 11 years at the helm.
Matilda Gustava sailing from Westray, Orkney, to Fair Isle in August 2018
Matilda Gustava sailing the Baltic and the North Sea towards Scotland in 2018 (video by Juho)